John Hulme and friends track down nine stations, nine pubs and 26 miles of Cheshire railway on their intrepid mission to get on board...
HANDFORTH - Where it all begins
Nine stations, nine pubs and 26 miles of Cheshire railway.
Early summer is in the air and I find myself back at Handforth, in the Railway pub alongside the Friends of Handforth Station, setting out on a journey built around that simple idea. That’s quite a railway marathon.
Created by the Friends, who mark their 30th anniversary this year, the Rail Ale Trail runs south to Crewe, with a short loop to Styal. On this journey I hope to meet a few Cheshire people who know a thing or two about the county, its pubs and its real ale.
Travelling with me is Steve Forde, retired community rail officer for the Crewe to Manchester Line, keeping me on track and well informed.
The idea comes to life at the Railway as I settle in with a pint of Robinsons Unicorn 4.2% Golden Ale, named after the Robinsons’ first pub purchased in Stockport in 1838, and it is on good form.
Across the table, Mike Bishop, president of the Friends of Handforth Station, sketches the route on a Northern 18 timetable as he explains how the trail is meant to be enjoyed.
‘There are 20 pubs along the trail,’ he says, ‘but one at each station is more than enough to enjoy it properly. If you’re after the Rail Ale Trail baseball cap, though, you’ll need 15. Collect a sticker at each pub.’
Fifteen pubs. Suddenly the marathon takes on a little more meaning.
Fortunately, I am not starting from scratch. In recent weeks I have already undertaken a little advance reconnaissance along the line, quietly ticking off a handful of pubs.
‘Don’t rush it,’ Mike says. ‘Make it a series of whistle-stop visits. Lunch, an afternoon stop, and an early evening bite before heading home.’
That sounds like good advice. Rather than attempt it in one go, I plan three outings, visiting three stations and three pubs on each trip, enough, with my earlier reconnaissance, to complete the card.
The Railway is a family-friendly place with good food and a warm welcome but it is time to leave and head for the platform, ready for the short hop to Wilmslow.
WILMSLOW
We are at Wilmslow in no time and Steve turns to me with a smile.
‘We are going to visit royalty in Wilmslow,’ he says, ‘and I am going to introduce you to an ale inspired by 1940s American aircraft nose art pin-ups.’
That feels quite a promise for a five-minute walk.
It proves to be just that as we arrive at the Robinsons King William, managed by the Cheshire Pub Company.
There is a quiet confidence about the place.
Behind the bar, manager Fay Hand has a 3.8% Dizzy Blonde Amarillo pale ale waiting, with the unmistakable wartime aircraft motif on the pumps.
Steve smiles: ‘A Dizzy Blonde and an American airman. Now that would be the start of a good wartime tale.’
STYAL
With that, we head back to the station and on to the Ship Inn at Styal, another in the Cheshire Pub Company family.
The train slips out of Wilmslow and, within minutes, the scene begins to soften.
‘Quite a change coming up,’ Steve says, glancing out of the window.
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Styal feels altogether different, the railway easing into a quieter, more rural setting and the landscape begins to tell its own story.
From the station it is a gentle walk to the Ship Inn, with a sense that you are stepping back in time.
‘This is mill country,’ Steve says. ‘Quarry Bank just down the road, one of the National Trust’s great stories.’
The Ship sits comfortably at the heart of it all, a proper village pub with roots in the late 18th century.
Inside, there is an easy warmth as Caitlin Duffy welcomes us and draws a 4% Cheshire Cat Blonde, light, crisp and brewed by Weetwood in Kelsall.
‘This is more my pace,’ I say, taking in the relaxed feel.
The menu soon proves its worth, especially the cheese and onion pie with creamy mash and Cheshire greens.
That Cheshire Cat ale left us with an enormous grin and was a fitting end to our first day.
ALDERLEY EDGE
Alderley Edge always feels like a place on the move, and as we arrive for the
second leg of the journey, the station is alive with walkers, rucksacks slung over shoulders and boots ready for the paths up to the Edge.
‘This is where the trail starts to stretch its legs a bit,’ Steve says, glancing
around. ‘And today, there’s a bit of pedigree about the pubs.’
We are joined by Mark Barker, chair of Cheshire Best Kept Stations, who brings with him 50 years of CAMRA membership – a reassuring companion for the day.
A 10-minute walk brings us to the De Trafford Arms, a building that predates modern Alderley Edge. Built by the de Trafford family in the early 19th century, it began as a country house before the railway arrived in 1842 and transformed the village.
Assistant manager Lucy Allen welcomes us and quickly spots an opportunity.
‘If you’ve got a CAMRA man with you,’ she says with a smile, ‘we’d better put him to work.’
Moments later, Mark is behind the bar, pulling a pint of Beartown’s 5% Skinful, brewed just down the road in Congleton. And there he is
– Mark having a Skinful at the first pub of the day!
CHELFORD
From Alderley Edge the line eases south to Chelford, the windows filling once more with lush green fields.
‘It’s quieter here,’ Steve says, as we step onto the platform.
A short walk brings us to the Egerton Arms, a pub with deep roots in the village and long associations with the nearby Tatton estate.
Behind the bar, Sally Welsh pulls a pint of Egerton Best Bitter, a well-balanced 4% ale from nearby Mobberley Brewhouse.
‘Simple things done well,’ Mark says, glancing at the menu.
The double-cooked chips are a local favourite, the potatoes coming from Massey’s just down the road at Snelson.
On Sundays, the roasts are built around meat from AJ Boon, the village butcher.
‘It doesn’t get much more Cheshire than that,’ I say.
Steve nods: ‘That’s what the trail’s about – the county behind the pubs.’
GOOSTREY
The train journey into Goostrey carries a quiet drama as the vast white dish of the Lovell Telescope rises above the fields, a reminder of Cheshire’s place in our understanding of the universe.
‘It’s not your usual view,’ Steve says.
From the station, it is a swift five-minute walk to the Space Invader, where that sense of discovery continues.The name is no gimmick. Inside, the pub leans to its connection with Sir Bernard Lovell and Jodrell Bank, giving it a playful identity while remaining, at heart, a proper village local.
Behind the bar, manager Becky Robinson pulls a pint of local Mobberley Brewhouse Invader Best, a well-kept 4% ale.
‘It’s a good choice for here and the name says it all,’ Steve says approvingly.
There is an easy warmth about the place, but also a sense of quiet curiosity. It is not hard to imagine in times gone by clusters of boffins gathered over a pint, debating cosmic rays with slide rules and logarithm tables at the ready, long before today’s modern technology.
As I settle in with some excellent pub food, I notice an oscilloscope tucked away behind me, remarkably similar to one in my old school physics lab, very much of 1960s vintage.
‘It all makes sense now,’ I say.
Steve nods: ‘Yes, this is the story of Jodrell Bank, but there’s another bank
I want you to see when we meet up again tomorrow.’
HOLMES CHAPEL
The next day we meet at Holmes Chapel for the final leg of the Rail Ale Trail.
‘Final day,’ I say.
‘And a good one to finish,’ Steve replies, as Mark joins us with a smile.
From the station it is a 10-minute walk into the village, where The Bottle Bank still carries the solid presence of its former life as a NatWest bank.
‘It’s got a certain aura,’ I say.
‘And wait until you see inside,’ Steve adds.
Behind the bar, manager Coral Taylor-Gray greets us warmly and pulls a pint of White Rat, a 4% hoppy pale ale, bright and refreshing. The Bottle Bank quickly reveals its character.
What was once a bank has been thoughtfully reimagined, opening out into a series of rooms, each with its own feel, drawing you further in.
‘It’s full of surprises,’ Mark says.
At the back, the large old vault now offers a rather special place to sit with a pint, a quiet nod to the building’s past.
There is a local energy about the place, welcoming and vibrant, with a mix of people enjoying everything from coffee to real ale.
‘You can almost picture it,’ I say, ‘the White Rat appearing after closing time and making its way through the warren of rooms.’
A lively and memorable start to our final day on the trail.
CREWE
From the Bottle Bank we return to the station, Steve pointing out that our next stop will have to be Crewe, as the Sandbach hostelry does not open until five o’clock.
From Crewe station it is a 20-minute walk to the Market Hall, where the Crewe Dog sits at the heart of a buzzing indoor scene.
‘This is different,’ Mark says, taking in the mix of food stalls and seating.
‘That’s the point,’ Steve adds. ‘It draws people in.’
Behind the bar, manager Chris Moloney-Ridsdale greets us, as enthusiastic about music as he is about beer, with his record shop, Vinyl Destination, just across the hall.The Railway
He pulls us a Merlin’s Gold, a 3.8% cask ale from the Merlin Micro Brewery in Arclid, light and full of Cheshire character.
There is a hum about the place, a blend of conversation, clinking glasses and aromas drifting from neighbouring kitchens.
From Cypriot street food to Sri Lankan dishes, and coffee from Mini Beans, the Market Hall offers a world of flavours under one roof.
‘It would be a good place to linger,’ Steve says, ‘but we should be on our way.’ He smiles: ‘There’s a surprise waiting in Sandbach. A story of community, civic pride and music, all in one small pub.’
SANDBACH
The Midland Inn, just across the road from Sandbach Station, carries its story with quiet pride.
‘This feels like a proper local,’ I say, as we step inside.
‘It is,’ Mark replies. ‘And one that nearly disappeared.’
Behind the bar we are welcomed by Barry McCreadie and Glynn Rowlinson, part of the group of regulars who refused to see their pub close and chose instead to buy it themselves.
‘We used to drink here,’ Barry tells us, ‘so we bought it.’ It says everything.
Sara Bernard of the Midland points to the history here too. Just around the corner, a blue plaque marks the home of Edwin Foden, founder of Foden Trucks, while local lore has it that Foden’s Band first played in the Midland’s upstairs room.
‘You can almost hear it,’ I say.
Mark smiles. ‘A pint and a brass band. Very Cheshire.’
I glance towards the bar. ‘And who’s that with the chain of office having a pint of Beartown’s 5% Skinful?’
Steve grins. ‘Your civic surprise, John. The retiring Mayor of Sandbach, councillor John Arnold.’
‘A fine way to finish,’ Cllr Arnold says, raising his glass, ‘and don’t forget your Rail Ale Trail cap.’
The mayor smiles and adds: ‘The Rail Ale Trail is a wonderful idea, and I am delighted to see it bringing people into Sandbach by train. It celebrates everything we do well in Cheshire – great pubs, great beer and a strong sense of community spirit. Well done to the Rail Ale Trail organisers.’
Pubs, food, music, breweries and great people. Yes, the Rail Ale Trail has a unique way of saying, ‘Love Cheshire.’.
RAIL ALE TRAIL FACTS
Our Rail Ale Trail is on the Manchester to Crewe Line via Wilmslow along with the loop to Styal. Timetable details can be found online within Northern’s Timetable 18. northernrailway.co.uk
On the Trail we visited:
Handforth – the Railway robinsonsbrewery.com
Wilmslow – King William robinsonsbrewery.com
Styal – the Ship theshipstyal.co.uk
Alderley Edge – De Trafford Arms chefandbrewer.com
Chelford – the Egerton Arms chelfordegertonarms.co.uk
Goostrey – the Space Invader thespaceinvaderpub.co.uk
Holmes Chapel – the Bottle Bank beeremporiumbottlebank.co.uk
Sandbach – the Midland Inn @MidlandInnElworth
Crewe – the Crewe Dog salty-dog.co.uk
Before travelling, please check each pub for opening times and days they are open.
The rail ale we enjoyed was brewed at Beartown Brewery in Congleton beartownbrewery.co.uk
Merlins Micro Brewery in Arclid merlinbrewing.co.uk
Mobberley Brew House mbh.beer
Ossett Brewery ossett-brewery.co.uk
Robinsons Brewery in Stockport robinsonsbrewery.com
Weetwood Brewery in Kelsall weetwoodales.co.uk
The Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) camra.org.uk
Further details of the Rail Ale Trail can be found at: handforthstation.org.uk
There are 20 pubs on the Rail Ale Trail, so why not try some of the pubs we did not visit?
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