IT'S known as the land that time forgot. Madagascar split from the

mainland of Africa 165 million years ago, and followed its own

evolutionary course. Until recently it was also the land that tourism

forgot. This is now starting to change, because of the extraordinary

variety it offers.

You have a choice: hills and mountains in the centre and north, virgin

rainforest in the east, spiny cactus forest in the south. All surrounded

by miles of unspoilt beaches. The east coast faces the stormy,

shark-infested Indian Ocean, but coral reefs make the west coast perfect

for swimming, with 10 months a year of guaranteed hot sunshine.

If that's not enough, then Madagascar has its own wildlife.

Three-quarters of its flora and fauna are found nowhere else in the

world. Admittedly you'd have to be a biologist to notice the difference

in many of the species, but lemurs are gratifyingly unique. The lemur

may challenge the panda for the title of the cuddliest endangered

species.

We camped for two days in a rainforest reserve at Ranomafana, where

our excellent guide showed us several different species of lemur -- a

relative of the African bushbaby. A ring-tailed mongoose ran around

outside our tent, while at night a fascinating small fossa came

scavenging. That was a magnificent experience, camping in the jungle

under a bright Milky Way. We were very lucky with the weather here. As

the name implies, clear skies are not the norm in the rainforest.

The forest is rapidly being destroyed for agriculture. ''Our only hope

now is tourism,'' said Amanda Wright, a scientist working at Ranomafana.

''Only if people can see that their forest attracts tourist money will

they start to value it as an asset.'' So far, in return for not cutting

more forest, the villagers are being given a school and medical centre,

paid for by international aid. It is rare to find somewhere tourism has

a positive effect on the environment.

Malagasy people have unique beliefs and customs. As we drove across

arid grasslands to the west coast, our driver stopped and emptied a

bottle of rum at the roadside and over our tyres. ''He has broken down

near here, and a friend of his had an accident at this spot,'' we were

told. ''We think it is because there was a tomb here which was moved to

build the road. He has to appease the ancestors.''

Ancestor worship is practised by two-thirds of the country. We met two

groups of tourists who had been invited to famidihana ceremonies. These

are three-day binges held to celebrate the dead. At the climax, the

tombs are opened, and ancestors' remains are exhumed, wrapped in a new

shroud and paraded round the village, to show them any new developments,

and to ask for their blessing.

On the west coast we decided we deserved a few days lying on a palm

beach. We swam and snorkeled over the coral reef from a pirogue (dug-out

canoe). An excellent place for doing nothing.

Then back to the capital, Antananarivo, a charming huggermugger of

buildings perched up and down hills. Its centrepieces are the palace

(built by a Scot) and the Zoma market, where white umbrellaed stalls

cover the main streets selling everything from hand-crafted souvenirs to

bits of ancient engines to empty bottles. I saw one stall selling

nothing but used tin cans.

From there we took the train east. Said to be one of the world's great

train journeys, this line descends 4500 feet to the coast. Most of the

drop comes over an extraordinary hour, as the line weaves in and out of

tunnels, round the side of mountains, through the rainforest, and at one

point loops round and goes under itself. Beautiful views, and definitely

the best way to travel.

Travelling around can be difficult. Most roads are so rutted that even

the best vehicle can only average 10mph. Public transport cars and buses

leave not at set times but when they are full -- and frequently only

when they are uncomfortably overfull. On one trip we travelled with 17

people crammed into a Peugeot 504 estate car. Plus everyone's luggage.

And one person was carrying a large clothing stall. And then there was

the woman taking home her plough.

If you've less than 10 days you can -- must -- fly anywhere. But

you'll miss the real Madagascar, and the real Malagasy: patient,

friendly and invariably cheerful and resourceful, no matter what the

problem. Perhaps best is to travel in a group of four or five, and hire

a 4WD and a driver. For those prepared to accept a little

unpredictability, this is a forgotten land of wonders.

* Travel Facts: Air France and Aeroflot are the only two carriers from

Europe. Air France lists flights at #1800, shopping around can reduce

that to #850. Aeroflot is #585; we booked through South American

Experience (071-976 5511) for #505 (high season, from Heathrow). Visas

#30 from Consulate of Madagascar, 081-746 0133. Inoculations: all needed

except yellow fever and cholera.

Best time to visit is October, when the weather is warm and dry, the

fruits are ripe and the orchids are flowering. Avoid December-March, the

wet season. Independent travellers need a working knowledge of French.

Hilary Bradt's Guide to Madagascar (#10.95, 3rd edition, August, 1992,

Bradt Publishers) is essential and very readable, updated regularly.

There are no tourist information offices in Madagascar.