IT'S known as the land that time forgot. Madagascar split from the
mainland of Africa 165 million years ago, and followed its own
evolutionary course. Until recently it was also the land that tourism
forgot. This is now starting to change, because of the extraordinary
variety it offers.
You have a choice: hills and mountains in the centre and north, virgin
rainforest in the east, spiny cactus forest in the south. All surrounded
by miles of unspoilt beaches. The east coast faces the stormy,
shark-infested Indian Ocean, but coral reefs make the west coast perfect
for swimming, with 10 months a year of guaranteed hot sunshine.
If that's not enough, then Madagascar has its own wildlife.
Three-quarters of its flora and fauna are found nowhere else in the
world. Admittedly you'd have to be a biologist to notice the difference
in many of the species, but lemurs are gratifyingly unique. The lemur
may challenge the panda for the title of the cuddliest endangered
species.
We camped for two days in a rainforest reserve at Ranomafana, where
our excellent guide showed us several different species of lemur -- a
relative of the African bushbaby. A ring-tailed mongoose ran around
outside our tent, while at night a fascinating small fossa came
scavenging. That was a magnificent experience, camping in the jungle
under a bright Milky Way. We were very lucky with the weather here. As
the name implies, clear skies are not the norm in the rainforest.
The forest is rapidly being destroyed for agriculture. ''Our only hope
now is tourism,'' said Amanda Wright, a scientist working at Ranomafana.
''Only if people can see that their forest attracts tourist money will
they start to value it as an asset.'' So far, in return for not cutting
more forest, the villagers are being given a school and medical centre,
paid for by international aid. It is rare to find somewhere tourism has
a positive effect on the environment.
Malagasy people have unique beliefs and customs. As we drove across
arid grasslands to the west coast, our driver stopped and emptied a
bottle of rum at the roadside and over our tyres. ''He has broken down
near here, and a friend of his had an accident at this spot,'' we were
told. ''We think it is because there was a tomb here which was moved to
build the road. He has to appease the ancestors.''
Ancestor worship is practised by two-thirds of the country. We met two
groups of tourists who had been invited to famidihana ceremonies. These
are three-day binges held to celebrate the dead. At the climax, the
tombs are opened, and ancestors' remains are exhumed, wrapped in a new
shroud and paraded round the village, to show them any new developments,
and to ask for their blessing.
On the west coast we decided we deserved a few days lying on a palm
beach. We swam and snorkeled over the coral reef from a pirogue (dug-out
canoe). An excellent place for doing nothing.
Then back to the capital, Antananarivo, a charming huggermugger of
buildings perched up and down hills. Its centrepieces are the palace
(built by a Scot) and the Zoma market, where white umbrellaed stalls
cover the main streets selling everything from hand-crafted souvenirs to
bits of ancient engines to empty bottles. I saw one stall selling
nothing but used tin cans.
From there we took the train east. Said to be one of the world's great
train journeys, this line descends 4500 feet to the coast. Most of the
drop comes over an extraordinary hour, as the line weaves in and out of
tunnels, round the side of mountains, through the rainforest, and at one
point loops round and goes under itself. Beautiful views, and definitely
the best way to travel.
Travelling around can be difficult. Most roads are so rutted that even
the best vehicle can only average 10mph. Public transport cars and buses
leave not at set times but when they are full -- and frequently only
when they are uncomfortably overfull. On one trip we travelled with 17
people crammed into a Peugeot 504 estate car. Plus everyone's luggage.
And one person was carrying a large clothing stall. And then there was
the woman taking home her plough.
If you've less than 10 days you can -- must -- fly anywhere. But
you'll miss the real Madagascar, and the real Malagasy: patient,
friendly and invariably cheerful and resourceful, no matter what the
problem. Perhaps best is to travel in a group of four or five, and hire
a 4WD and a driver. For those prepared to accept a little
unpredictability, this is a forgotten land of wonders.
* Travel Facts: Air France and Aeroflot are the only two carriers from
Europe. Air France lists flights at #1800, shopping around can reduce
that to #850. Aeroflot is #585; we booked through South American
Experience (071-976 5511) for #505 (high season, from Heathrow). Visas
#30 from Consulate of Madagascar, 081-746 0133. Inoculations: all needed
except yellow fever and cholera.
Best time to visit is October, when the weather is warm and dry, the
fruits are ripe and the orchids are flowering. Avoid December-March, the
wet season. Independent travellers need a working knowledge of French.
Hilary Bradt's Guide to Madagascar (#10.95, 3rd edition, August, 1992,
Bradt Publishers) is essential and very readable, updated regularly.
There are no tourist information offices in Madagascar.
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